Tom Kraeutler's Home Improvement Tips & Tricks
Tom Kraeutler, the host of radio's The Money Pit, answers your questions about home improvement.
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- Going Green While Growing Green: Tips for Creating Smart Lawn Stewardship Program
Going green in a home lawn care program doesn't have to be a daunting task. There are some easy, cost-effective steps homeowners can take to improve their lawns while enhancing the positive effects of lawn maintenance on the environment. A healthy lawn is not only beautiful; it provides great benefits for the environment. Consider that:
* Every 2,500 square feet of lawn produces enough oxygen each day for a family of four.
Lawns reduce noise pollution by absorbing, deflecting and refracting sounds.
Lawns trap and help control dust, soot and pollen in the air that can cause allergic reactions.* Turf absorbs gaseous pollutants (such as carbon dioxide) from vehicles, thus serving to combat greenhouse effect implicated in global warming.
* A healthy lawn reduces storm water runoff and directs its flow through the soil to recharge groundwater.
* On a hot summer day grass can be 10-14 degrees cooler than bare soil and as much as 30 degrees cooler that concrete or asphalt.
* Lawn grasses prevent soil erosion by water and wind. Less dust and mud makes its way into a home.
How can a homeowner reduce their lawn waste and lessen their environmental impact? Rob Rogan, business director for Sta-Green® lawn and garden products, offers the following tips:
Select the proper fertilizer for your lawn - Most established lawns can utilize phosphorus that exists in the soil, so an alternative product such as Sta-Green phosphorus-free fertilizer is a good choice. It will support the growth of a beautiful, healthy lawn. For lawns where a soil test indicates the need for phosphorus, choose a product such as Sta-Green Xtended Feed Turf Fertilizer.
Read and followthe manufacturer's recommendations and directions for use - Before you purchase any fertilizer, make certain that the product label contains complete directions for use. Follow the directions for use carefully and apply as indicated by the manufacturer for best results. Improper fertilization can actually make a lawn more susceptible to insect, disease and drought. Call the manufacturer if you have any questions or do not understand the directions.
Never apply any fertilizer to a hard surface such as sidewalks, driveways or streets - Granular fertilizer that remains on sidewalks and driveways will be washed off of these hard surfaces by rainfall and into storm drains and sewers. Sweep or blow any fertilizer material that lands on hard surfaces back onto the lawn area. When applying, do not open the spreader until you are over the lawn area and walking at normal speed. A drop spreader is ideal for controlling fertilizer applied to small lawns and narrow strips of grass.
Do not wash your spreader out over a hard surface - The small amount of fertilizer residue left in the spreader can be rinsed out over a corner of the lawn without blemishing the grass.
Do not blow grass clippings or tree leaves onto sidewalks or into streets - Leaves from grasses and trees contain significant amounts of soluble nutrients that can be released into storm drains and sewers. Always remember that anything you place in a street can find its way into your local streams and lakes. For this reason, never blow grass clippings or tree leaves onto sidewalks or into streets when you mow unless you intend to pick them up.
Rainwater from gutters and down spouts should be directed onto the lawn area instead of directly onto hard surfaces - Leaves and flowering parts of trees contain significant amount of soluble phosphorus. When they fall onto rooftops and get caught in rain gutters, the phosphorus will leach out with rainwater. Prevent this water from reaching storm drains and sewers by diverting it onto lawns (or into containers to be used to water plants). Or you can install gutter guards to keep leaves and other plant debris out of your gutters in the first place.Cover bare ground with vegetation or mulch to prevent soil erosion - Phosphorus is rapidly immobilized after application of fertilizer to a lawn as it becomes chemically bound to soil particles. Once bound to soil, practically the only way phosphorus can move is if the soil particles are eroded and become suspended in storm water runoff. Maintenance of a dense, healthy ground cover such as turf is the best way to prevent soil erosion and thus nutrients from entering into storm drains and sewers. You can prevent soil erosion by using mulch where soils are not fully covered by a dense plant ground cover.
Do not use "all purpose" garden-type fertilizers for lawns - Garden fertilizers are generally formulated with a higher content of phosphorus for flowering plants and vegetables. Fertilizers designated as 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 are examples of garden fertilizers. Typically, lawns do not need as much phosphorus as these would provide.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:41:49 GMT - Q + A: Proper Prep for Painting Projects
I’m about to tackle my first interior paint job, and don’t want to wind up with the same rough-looking results I’ve seen in other DIYers’ homes. What’s the key to getting a great finish?
firsthome08 2-29-08 6:47 p.m.When it comes to painting, preparation makes perfect. What you’ve probably seen in those other homes is the result of someone being so excited about the new paint color that they skipped over the “boring” parts of a proper paint job. Here are the three basic prep steps:
1. Clean all surfaces. The first step is to scrub away any accumulations of smoke, oil and grime that can keep paint from adhering. Use liquid sandpaper to remove buildup from trim, and wash walls down with a TSP (trisodium phosphate) solution, available at most home centers and hardware stores. Tip: Apply the solution with a sponge-head floor mop for an easier reach and avoidance of ladder catastrophes.
2. Smooth everything out. Once cleaned surfaces are completely dry, you’ll need to smooth them out. This is where a lot of the work happens, so don’t skimp or get lazy with the details, because the new paint won’t hide them. Fill all holes and cracks, followed by a thorough allover sanding and removal of the resulting dust. Then grab a really strong flashlight and hold it against and parallel to the wall to check your work. As the light bounces over the repaired area, you’ll be able to see exactly how the surface will look when sunshine hits it. If this test reveals unsightly details, go back and smooth them before packing up the sander.
3. Mask marvelously. Finally, you’ll need to mask off everything you don’t want painted and carefully create a clean edge for every coat of paint. Apply painter’s tape along trim and glass edges, and use it in combination with plastic sheeting or masking paper to cover fixtures that can’t be moved and large surface areas to be left out of the equation. Also remove switch and socket plates (followed by a bit of tape over remaining switches and plugs) and all possible hardware.
From there, all you need to do is make sure the room temperature is below 90 degrees and above 55 so that paint goes on smoothly, and you’re good to go on primer application. Cut in around edges and then fill in surfaces, and after the primer’s dry, apply your new paint shade in two rounds for a durable, beautiful finish.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Sat, 08 Mar 2008 21:37:18 GMT - Q + A: Replace or refinish bathroom fixtures?
The worn fixtures in my master bath are in need of an update, but I don’t quite have the budget to replace everything at once. Is refinishing a viable option for some of the items?
Basically, you need to go fixture by fixture and look at the costs involved in replacement versus refinishing. A tub or shower can be expensive to replace and also leads to a cascade of other upgrade costs including wallboard, tiling and trim, and flooring adjustments. In that case, having a pro repair chips and cracks and apply a new finish can be a money-saving solution and stave off the need for a big-ticket purchase. Sinks can also be refinished, but the cost of the job is so close to the price of a new unit that you’re better off shopping for a replacement and a nice new faucet to go with it. Old, cracked, leaky toilets aren’t worth the trouble of repair; instead, invest in one of the new WaterSense-labeled high-efficiency toilets, which can dramatically reduce your water bill during many years of service.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Sun, 02 Mar 2008 16:46:23 GMT - Q + A: Most Popular Home Improvement Projects of 2008
I have several home improvement projects on my list for the coming year, and am wondering what the most popular categories are so that I can get on contractors’ calendars in plenty of time. Also, is now too soon to plan for jobs to be done in late spring and summer?
jwilli 2-3-08 10:16pmNow is actually the perfect time to plan for and schedule those warm-weather projects, especially if a contractor will be involved. You’ll have extra competition in popular categories of course, so take time to prioritize and think through what you can reasonably handle on your own versus what requires professional help; otherwise, you could wind up in over your head with an undone project and stormy weather approaching.
Following are the top ten projects that Leslie Segrete and I get calls about on The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show─consider these as you plan home updates for 2008.
Flooring: Installing laminate or ceramic or vinyl tile is a doable DIY job, as is refinishing a hardwood floor. For more complicated hardwood, carpet or vinyl installations, go with a pro.
Plumbing: Take minor fixture replacements into your own hands, but work with a plumber for room reconfigurations and installation of larger fixtures.
HVAC: This is definitely the province of the pros, but it’s up to you to understand your current system and research options for improvements and additions before a consultation.
Walls and ceilings: Most DIYers have the skill to apply new wallcoverings, patch cracks, and clean surfaces. Going deeper than the surface, however, leads to structural, electrical and sometimes plumbing elements that are unwise to tackle without experience.
Windows and siding: You may be able to see your way clear to a window installation or two, but bigger changes to your home’s building envelope bring extra complications. Research options that will work for your home’s style and construction, as well as contribute to energy savings.
Kitchen and bath: There’s a pretty wide spectrum of DIY possibilities here, with professional trades joining the party as you move toward more complex redesigns and structural changes.
Roofing: Before bringing in the professionals, do an honest assessment as to whether repair or replacement is in order, and shop the materials and possible price ranges involved.
Basements and crawl spaces: A little detective work goes a long way in these zones, and most improvements are DIY-able.
Mold eradication: Record the appearance and progress of any mold sightings and any possible related health issues, and bring in a professional to help arrest this threat to a home’s structure and inhabitants.
Insulation and ventilation: Get to know your home’s systems so that you can tend to minor upgrades and improvements, and have a pro handle larger-scale insulation additions.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:39:23 GMT - Q + A: Repainting Kitchen Cabinets
My kitchen cabinets are looking pretty tired, and I’d like to give them a low-cost face lift. What kinds of finish should I use?
nlvc 2-18-08First, make sure your cabinets are eligible for DIY refinishing by examining their construction and material content. Solid wood and laminate are both good candidates for refinishing, but anything covered in veneer is not, unless you’re willing to apply paint rather than stain. Whether painting or staining, choose an oil-based finish, which is far more durable and forgiving of everyday kitchen grime than latex finish.
If your cabinets meet refinishing requirements, here are the project steps you’ll need to take:
1. Working in a well-ventilated area, begin with a thorough cleaning, removing all dirt and grime from cabinets; allow surfaces to dry.
2. Apply a paint/finish remover, and scrape away finish with a putty knife, followed by a wire brush. Continue this cycle until a clean wood surface is revealed.
3. Sand cabinets with fine-grit sandpaper, and remove resulting dust and debris with a tack cloth. You may also consider using a liquid sanding agent, which can be very effective in application of fine woodworking details and other hard-to-sand areas (it also helps with the grime-removal step of refinishing).
4. Apply the new finish according to the manufacturer’s instructions (preceded by the appropriate primer if you’re painting the cabinets), allowing surfaces to dry thoroughly between coats.
5. When finish applications are complete, apply a protective top coat to shield cabinets from moisture, grease and surface oil.
Finally, accessorize your refreshed cabinets with new knobs and pulls─they’re the bling that brings personality to a kitchen update!
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:26:13 GMT - Consumer Reports: These Vacuums Suck
Consumer Reports tests show several brands should pay more attention to the product’s purpose. Latest tests of more than 60 upright and canister vacuums reveal that several brands have included innovative features in new models—including germ-killing claims—but several fell short in their overall purpose – plain old cleaning. The new Panasonic AeroBlast [MC-UL975], $700, includes a unique feature that promises to stretch filter life, among other things. But CR test results showed these claims were overstated. Halo Technologies says its uprights, including the $400 UVX, kill dust mites, flea eggs, and germs using UV light. CR didn’t test those claims because the UVX was only so-so at the more primary tasks of cleaning carpets and picking up pet hair. What’s more, it has no hose or tools.
For homes with pet hair, the Electrolux’s $300 Harmony [EL6985B] canister is the latest to flub CR’s grueling pet-hair test, which gauges how well vacuums remove Maine Coon cat fur from carpet. As with the brand’s TwinClean model, cat hair wound itself around the brush and stopped it—partly because the brush is driven by airflow, rather than a motor.
“We tell shoppers to look at performance first and to choose a vacuum that meets their cleaning needs,” said Bob Markovich, Home & Yard editor at Consumer Reports. “With so many vacuums on the market and every manufacturer trying to stand out, it’s especially important for consumers to choose function over hype.”
The Best Vacs for Every Need
The best uprights for most were the CR Best Buy Kenmore Progressive with Direct Drive [35922], $300 and [36932], $350. Be sure to also consider the lower-priced Hoover WindTunnel Bagless [U5753-900], $160, which is worth considering for consumers willing to accept less airflow, more noise, lower brand reliability for uprights, and emptying a bin.If less weight is worth some trade-offs, the 9-pound Riccar SupraLite [RSL3], $330, is the lightest. Its cousin, the SupraLite [RSL4], $450, is more expensive, but provides superb carpet cleaning. Three models from Hoover, including the Tempo Widepath [U5140-900], $60, the Wind Tunnel Supreme [U5458-900], $130, and the EmPower [U5262-910], $100, all offer the most value and performance. The Hoover EmPower even folds, however, there are more reliable upright brands that consumers should consider.
The best canister vacuum with superb carpet cleaning is the Electrolux Oxygen [EL6988D], $400. This vacuum sets its self apart from the rest of the canister vacs. The less expensive CR Best Buy Kenmore Progressive [27514], $300, performs nearly as well overall. However, if picking up pet hair isn’t a top priority, Consumer Reports suggests the slightly lower-priced Hoover WindTunnel Bagless [S3765-040], $250.
How to Choose the Best Vacuum for Your Needs
CR offers quick tips in choosing the best vacuum that cleans the most effectively for based on consumers’ needs.* Choose the right kind – Most perform well on bare floors. But uprights tend to do better on carpets. Canisters are easier to push, pull, and use on stairs because people move mostly the hose and power head.
* Check the features – A brush on/off switch helps prevent scattering dirt and protects bare floors, while manual pile height adjustments let people match brush and carpet height more precisely than they can with automatic systems.
* Think carefully about bagless – CR Quick Picks include models with and without bags. But many will probably prefer a bag if they have allergy concerns, because emptying a bagless vac’s bin is a frequent and dusty task. And although HEPA bags and filters can provide added filtration, they don’t guarantee that a vacuum won’t spew dust. Models that scored high in CR emissions tests should do well in homes if they use the same bags or filters that came with the machine.
CR’s full report on vacuums is part of the March 2008 issue of Consumer Reports, which is available wherever magazines are sold. The full story is also available online at www.ConsumerReports.org.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Thu, 07 Feb 2008 21:21:01 GMT - Q+A: Updating Home to Help My Parents
I've lived in my 1928 DC Row/Federal Style home for over 30 years. I would like to add a 2 or 3 story addition to the rear, as well as install Central AC, remodel the Kitchen, create a Master Bedroom, and a few other smaller projects. I am a caregiver for both my mother and father. Both require wheelchair access and I need additional space for my DJ business. My width is limited to 18 feet, but the rear yard is deep (80 feet or so), and I can go up.I need a few good recommendations, sources to check, persons to speak to, etc. I have been on line and I do have a lot of material, but the lists are just too great. I would love to be able to select from 5-10 good Contractors. People who understand what I am trying to do and don't charge crazy prices. With so many choices and no other ways of eliminating them, even the ones which come recommended by the Better Business Bureau or those who belong to specific building organizations, don't narrow themselves down enough for me. I need somebody I can work with!
Cherryle Hooks, Washington, D.C.We’ll as the husband of one of our current Presidential candidates once said: “I feel your pain!”
You are not alone. According to a recent AARP study, nearly ninety percent of adults 50 and older want to stay in their current home and community as they age. Another recent report shows that two-thirds of the 50+ population intend to remodel or make home improvements to their home within the next 12 months
I have a suggested solution. The AARP began a program in partnership with the National Association of Home Builders called CAPS which stands for Certified Aging in Place Specialists. CAPS pros are specially trained to deal with the exact issues you are facing. They can help you find ways to improve or add to you existing home that will make life grand for both you and your parents!
For more information visit www.aarp.org/homedesign.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Thu, 07 Feb 2008 01:04:28 GMT - Q + A: Best way to store firewood
On your home improvement radio show, I heard you warn that storing wood too close to your house can invite termites. How should I be storing and maintaining my firewood supply this winter?
lak720 2-1-08 12:22pmCirculation and safety are the two main things to keep in mind as you stack up and store your fuel supply. Mixed with moisture and easy access to the structures on your property, a firewood stack can become a termite buffet. What’s more, wet wood doesn’t burn very efficiently, putting out more steam than heat. So start by finding a dry, safe home for it, whether in an open-air woodshed or free-standing stack. Keep firewood out of contact with the ground using a stack base of treated wood or other moisture-resistant material, and avoid stationing the stack against an exterior wall of your home, as a pocket of moisture can develop and damage siding as well as welcome termites and other pests.
Cut wood to the longest possible length for stacking stability (a single row is best), and pack it snugly but with enough space to allow airflow and discourage the development of mold and mildew. Four feet is about the maximum height your stack should reach without side supports, and an even, no-slope arrangement should allow easy access and maintain stability. Finally, shield the top few layers of ready-to-use firewood with a waterproof cover, adjusting it as you remove the fuel for indoor warmth.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Sat, 02 Feb 2008 18:52:59 GMT - Q + A: Adding Radiant Heating to a Living Area
I’d really like to add radiant heating to the floors in my home. Is this possible with an existing structure, or is radiant heating technology only doable in a new build?
allen343 1-26-08 4:23pmNew builds are the best opportunity for installation of a super-customized, whole-house system, but you can definitely add radiant heating to an existing space with one of the many smart, affordable after-market products now available. Uponor’s Quik Trak hydronic system is one example, and employs special half-inch-high wood panels that are installed over concrete slab or a plywood subfloor, with grooves down the center of each panel which hold the strong, crosslinked polyethylene (PEX) tubing that circulates heated water underneath the surface. Your favorite flooring is then installed over the Quik Trak panels, and the system is ready to warm the room efficiently and comfortably from the ground up.
I think you’ll be really happy with the results of the radiant heating installation you’re considering. There’s nothing better than stepping onto a warm floor on a cold morning or chilly night, and that extra layer of comfort can actually help to reduce or even eliminate the need to power up other heating sources in your home.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Sun, 27 Jan 2008 17:02:20 GMT - Q + A: Choosing a Hybrid HVAC System
It’s about time for me to upgrade my home’s HVAC components, and I’ve been hearing a lot about hybrid systems. Can they really keep my home comfy and cut my utility bills?
jrocha 1-18-08 2:33pmJust like hybrid vehicles, hybrid HVAC systems have come a long way in the last few years, and now’s a great time to check them out as a potential means of home heating and cooling. Hybrid HVAC systems bring together two fuel sources for efficient heating and cooling, usually a gas furnace and an electric heat pump. A smart control system is where the efficiency comes in: calibrated by your local installer according to local seasonal temperatures and utilities rate patterns, it switches between the furnace and heat pump depending on which offers the most economical power for your heating or cooling needs at any given time. And you’ll definitely see results when you do a before-and-after comparison of utilities bills: American Standard’s Heritage Hybrid Comfort System, for example, can deliver up to 68 percent energy savings over a comparable 10-year-old system and 37 percent savings compared to more recent systems.
Other benefits of a hybrid HVAC system include longer life for those expensive components thanks to the shared fueling responsibility, and settings that can be adjusted by your dealer as major changes occur in utilities rates and local climatic patterns. Such systems also accommodate the addition of air filtration and humidity-control units for improved comfort and air quality indoors.
Reaching Tom: For more tips, sign up for Tom's free e-newsletter here. If you have a home improvement question or comment on this topic, please post it below. For answers to other home improvement questions, please email Tom at tomsmoneypit@aol.com so your question can beused in future blog entries, or search Tom's home improvement articles at moneypit.com.
Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:52:15 GMT
